We crossed the International Date Line leaving Auckland, New Zealand at 9:30 a.m. on a Monday, arriving at 3:00 pm on a Sunday. How fun to add an extra day to our time in the Cook Islands! A representative named Allie picked us up to bring us out to the Sunhaven Beach Bungalows. Here we stayed in a studio unit set apart from the others with a full kitchen and a porch with a soothing lagoon view. We found it intriguing as the waves crash from a distance along the reef while the water in the front of it is relatively calm. The waters have contrasting shades of blue and a lot of black volcanic rocks jutting out of the water.

We experienced a Polynesian show at the Cultural Center where they had an example of an authentic village. We saw many demonstrations including a ceremonial offering to the “King” who then approved it for the “Gods” with many Maorian words shouted into the hillside. Aside from exceptional Polynesian dancing and drumming, we feasted on a buffet which included umu cooking. This is when the food is cooked in an underground oven which is dug out in the dirt with food wrapped around banana leaves and placed around hot coals and wood. Then big leaves are piled on top (banana leaves) and the food is baked for about 3-4 hours. Food also included Taro leaves (like Spinach), fish in coconut cream sauce, sushi/sashimi, Casava (another root vegetable which is so delicious). They told the story of how the Cook Islanders converted from Cannibalism to Christianity and how it showed up in the changes to their dancing and music. We were glad that they no longer practiced cannibalism as we might have been the dinner!

We hiked the Raemaru track which took us on a steep climb gaining 1,500 feet quickly through a thick jungle with scratchy, thorn-like vegetation. This did not feel so good with shorts on. There were places where we had to step carefully on narrow paths or rather, non-paths, to avoid plunging off cliffs as well as many rocks to scramble. Then we came across many large boulders to traverse with ropes hanging down and also clamps so we actually finished it off with rock climbing (without equipment) and lived to tell the tale! The views were worth it. Stunning glimpses of the tropical mountains with red flowered trees, giant elephant ears, palms, and dense green brush. We took a break to savor our apples, enjoy the view, and encourage one another for our trip down. We only saw 2 other couples out on the trail and they were in the 50-60 age bracket so all of us are still out feeling our youth! The proprietor at Sunhaven later told us that an 80 year old and her 50 year old daughter had left the evening before at 4:00 pm and done the climb in time to enjoy happy hour on their porch at 5:30 pm. We found this hard to believe as it took us much longer! We think maybe the ladies didn’t climb the ropes!

Jim went out for a 2-tank dive with Rarotanga Dive Company (run by a couple from Scotland). He captured some beautiful photos of underwater life. We also went out snorkeling once in an area about 15 minutes walking distance from our bungalow. Even at high tide we barely skimmed over the tops of the coral as it is so shallow. With many porcupine sea urchins to be on the look out for, it seemed a bit stressful. We still enjoyed the dazzling colors of the coral and sea life.